Grappa, A.K.A. Italian Moonshine
A funny thing happened on the way across the manure-strewn barnyard - grappa became fashionable, and EXPENSIVE. But before we look at this phenomenon, let’s take a quick look at exactly what grappa is, and how it is made.
Grappa is what is also sometimes called “immature brandy”. Now this doesn’t mean that it’s a drink that sticks out its tongue at you (though after drinking some, you might stick YOUR tongue out at IT!), but rather a distillate made from grapes that has not been aged in oak barrels - this is why grappa is “water white” and Cognac, for example, is brown. The other major difference between grappa and other grape distillates like Cognac, Spanish brandy, Alsatian eauxs de vie, etc. is that these latter examples are made from WHOLE grapes. A wine is made from the grapes that are associated with these liquors, and then this wine is in turn distilled, and then often aged in oak barrels. Grappa is made from what in Italian is called “vinacce” (vi-NAH-che) which are the seeds, stems, and skins that remain after the juice has been pressed away for winemaking. These “vinacce” are then heavily pressed for a second time. From this point the process is the same for the production of any other distillate, exept for the aging part, at least traditionally - some contemporary grappas are aged for a time in barrel to smooth them out, but this is undoubtedly revisionist.
So, because traditional, un-aged grappa is made from the vinacce, where there are extremely high levels of not only tannins, but after fermention, some small quantities of wood alcohol (derived from the woody stems), grappa kicks like Dominic the Italian Christmas Donkey
So back to the manure-strewn barnyard…Let’s face it, the very IDEA of making something like grappa is born out of one simple exigency: POVERTY. Grappa was fundamentally made by poor farmers who could not afford to waste ANYTHING, even the vinacce. The very idea of making grappa commercially and putting a $50 price tag on it is STILL laughable to many northern Italian countryfolk. Grappa as a drink was limited to 1 small glass as a digestivo after a huge winter meal. But what’s even funnier about $50 bottles of grappa is that it was just as often used by rural people as a medicine: to sterilize wounds, to put on a rag to be applied to the forehead to reduce fever, etc. just like we use 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol today. A bottle of rubbing alcohol costs about $1.49, and some might say that it’s just about as palatable as grappa…
Don’t take me wrong here, I’m not dissing grappa, just giving the drinker a big caveat emptor regarding price. Many ultra-premium Italian wineries produce grappas and slap exorbitant prices on them, trying to capitalize on the luxury brand image that they’ve cultivated to sell something that is a product of what most others sell off as fertilzer for dollars a ton. You don’t necessarily “get what you pay for” with grappa, though at the same time, go “downmarket” at your own risk.
One last word. There are some very famous “grappa” producers (like Nonino) that by strict definition, do not make grappas, but rather true “immature brandies” from very high quality WHOLE GRAPES. Some of these products are indeed worth the extra green, but some others are priced beyond the reach of anyone but the Johnny Walker Blue Label crowd. These products are indeed EXCELLENT, but are clearly not the last word in value. So my final prescription is by all means drink grappa, but like a ‘68 Chevelle with a 396 or a militarily-trained Doberman Pinscher, treat it with repect.
TOM CIOCCO
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…”this is why grappa is “water white”
Learn something new every day. I “assumed” grappa was a red wine. Really enjoying the blog.
Comment by elbowroom — December 24, 2006 @ 11:19 pm
Great to read someone else writing about grappa and the bizarre idea of it becoming a fashionable drink with delusions of grandeur. It strikes me it is following the path of dozens of other Italian ‘peasant products’ like polenta, bean soup or chestnuts which end up costing a fortune in some awful upmarket restaurant. Long may the fight for cheap, down to earth grappa continue…
Comment by Ginkers — December 27, 2006 @ 4:46 pm
Ginkers-
Yup. My dad (child of Italian immigrants) said that growing up in the 30s and 40s, even pasta was considered by most “Americans” to be barely above animal feed - you couldn’t give it away - now they regularly get $10-$20 a dish for it, and it’s probably Prince or Ronzoni!!!
TOM CIOCCO
Comment by Tom C — December 27, 2006 @ 5:21 pm
I was on vacation in Italy a couple of years ago and ordered a Grappa after dinner in a restaurant in Florence. The waiter served me up a fairly large glass of this noxious liquid and then hid around the corner, with most of the restaurant staff, waiting for my reaction after trying it. I had tried Grappa before so had a pretty good idea of what to expect but their reaction made me think that they got their fair share of tourists ordering the “casa” Grappa and not being able to choke it down. At least it wasn’t expensive!
Comment by Russ J — January 2, 2007 @ 2:14 pm
I have traveled throughout Italy many, many times and have enjoyed grappa. In fact, I have no less than 25 bottles from various producers in my home. Occasionally I did find a grappa that was undrinkable, and some were just average. However, with careful selection, just as when choosing a wine, you can enjoy excellent grappa; many have their own individual character. Most Italian grappas are now produced under strict government regulations, just as many wines are. I never ding a wine or grappa based on it’s production methods & materials; if the producer’s artistry and skill produces a finished product you enjoy at a value you perceive is fair…….go for it.
Comment by Doug S — January 27, 2007 @ 10:52 am
Doug-
I didn’t mean to imply that all grappa is rocket fuel, but rather was trying to point up the disconnect between a drink that just 20 years ago was considered to be a thoroughly rustic drink for peasants to something that can command single malt Scotch prices. When a jump like this occurs in such a short time, it leaves the opportunity for some to charge $40 for something that’s worth $20.
TOM CIOCCO
Comment by Tom C — January 29, 2007 @ 10:38 am
i’m a single malt enthusiast and i’ve been starting on red wine. came across grappa and picked up a bottle through friend. it’s not so bad as above mentioned that excellent grappa exists. =) quite an acquired taste. - from Singapore
Comment by kelv — January 31, 2007 @ 9:40 am
we have the fenny here in india which is distilled from cashew fruit as strong and many ways similiar to the grappa. I had my share of grappa in italy. The first time i had this at a very cosy bar near the bologna stataion it was so fiery hat the guys at the bar gave me some soarkling water to settle down. The drink has great identity and its indeed need to be respected and had, Will shortly start a collcetion
khini
Comment by khini — March 5, 2007 @ 7:37 am