Pisco - A Spirit worth fighting for

Pisco is not a “household” spirit outside of its homeland, and that is a real shame - it’s as “clean” as vodka, but far more flavorful, it “mixes” with the best of them, but is a very fine beverage to sip on its own, and it has as much individual variety as either Cognac or Armagnac, but (at least for me) is FAR more palateable.

So straight to inevitable question: “What is Pisco”? I’m glad I asked…Pisco is a type of brandy that is produced in Peru and Chile (and a BIT in Bolivia as well). It is, like grappa, “water white”, and has it’s origins in the grape vine, but there all similarities end. Pisco, unlike grappa, is always made from WHOLE grapes (not the vinacce [skins, seeds, and stems] from which grappa is derived), and very specific ones at that. Pisco MUST be made in traditional copper pot stills (and NEVER in the “continuous stills” that are often used for vodka production). From this point, Peruvian and Chilean Pisco productions diverge…let’s look a little history first…

Now of all of the bones of contention between Peru and its neighbor to the south Chile, Pisco might be the most serious. Each country claims the beverage as its national drink, and the production of Pisco has a long history in both places. The controversy is quite understandable if you take a peek at the history. In about the year 1530 (the rough era from which Pisco springs) both what is now Peru and Chile were united under the aegis of the Viceroyalty of Peru. Right about this time, Peru’s Spanish colonizers began to plant vines in what is now the Ica province of southern Peru. Shortly thereafter, vines were planted further south in what is now Chile. Originally, these vineyards were planted to produce wine for local consumption, but more importantly for expert back to Spain. And until 1641, when wine exports to Spain were banned as a protection for the native Spanish wine industry, most of these grapes were destined to be turned into wine. But the ban forced growers to find a new purpose for their newly-found glut of fruit, and while Pisco had been made prior to 1641, it’s production boomed after that date. The original, and still the most important grape variety from which Pisco is made (especially in Peru) is called Quebranta, a now profoundly mutated variety of Spanish origin, though the exact variety from which it is descended is still unknown.

This brings us to the Peruvian/Chilean divide. In a large nutshell, here are the features that characterize each country’s version of the spirit:

PERU

Peruvian Piscos are divided into four subvarieties:

Pure - “Pure” Piscos must be made from only one variety (which is usually Quebranta) but other Peruvian varieties like Mollar and Common Black are also permitted. “Pure” Pisco is often considered to be the refined and elevated type of the drink

Aromatic - Aromatic Piscos also are permitted to be made from only one variety, but this variety must be of the “aromatic” type: the multitude of Muscat sub-varieties in addition to some rare hybrid aromatic varieties like Italia and Torontel. These are declining in popularity in Peru since the production of Chilean Pisco is almost exclusively associated with Aromatic varieties

Green Must - The most “basic” type of Pisco. Made from partially fermented musts. These types are quite strong and rustic in character.

Acholado - Acholado Piscos are the newest style. These can be made from a blend of aromatic and non-aroamtic grape varieties.

The other regulations governing the production of Peruvian Pisco are quite simple but strict and clear nonetheless: Peruvian Pisco must be aged for a minimum of three months in completely neutral vessels such as steel or glass or any other material that will have no effect on its color or flavor. Further, no flavorings or infusions may be added to any Peruvian Pisco, and all production must be bottled at “still proof”, i.e. no reduction or augmentation of alcohol levels are permitted in any form.

CHILE

Chilean Piscos are also subdivided into four categories, but these according to alcoholic strength:

Regular - 60-70 proof - This light, sweet and often a bit coarse in character

Special - 70-80 proof - Special and Reserve are sweeter, darker, and stronger than Regular Piscos

Reserve - 80-86 proof

Great - 86 proof or above - Great Pisco is more pungent than any of the other types, and is a bit less sweet as well. These types are often quite woody in flavor.

As was mentioned above, nearly all Chilean Piscos are made with aromatic grape varieties, mostly varieties of Muscat. There is no prohibition in mixing the varieties used in any way the producer chooses.

Very different from Peruvian Pisco, those from Chile must be aged for a short time in oak casks (which gives Chilean Pisco its characteristic yellowish color) but many “Great” Piscos are left to age in cask for longer periods of time.

Also, the alcoholic strength of Chilean Piscos can be altered by either raising their alcoholic strength by employing distillation rectifiers, and similarly may be reduced with the addition of water (though presumably this is little done since, at least in theoty, higher proof Piscos are finer).

Let me be very clear in stating that the rivalry between Peru and Chile regarding Pisco is intense to say the least. The two countries have been suing an counter-suing for generations over who owns the rights to the name, the production norms, and everthing else you could imagine. And this friction extends far beyond the sphere of beaurocrats and producers - heated arguments and even bouts of fisticuffs have been known to grow out from the two camps, each believing the other to be missing the point on Pisco.

In my view, and I can already see the ugly comments from Santiago already flying my way, Peruvian Pisco is the the more “authentic” product, and the one that really deserves to bear the Pisco name if indeed only one nation is permitted to do so. Peruvian Pisco is cleaner, less manipulated, and better defined than Chilean Pisco, and for my taste, much more interesting and less coarse than Chilean Pisco, but clearly, this is a matter of taste.

So after all these (thankfully for you, much abridged) regulatory norms, what does Pisco taste like? The first word that I’s use is “surprising”. On first look at Pisco, spirit lovers will (before tasting it, for sure!) begin to compare it to grappa. Let’s be clear about one thing about Pisco: it is NOT grappa. Not even close. In the glass (and apart from the Pisco Sour, good Pisco is always drunk neat at room temperature) Pisco is “water white”, with a slightly viscous, “oily” texture, and SEDUCTIVELY SMOOTH. The aromas vary according to grape variety, but Quebranta Piscos are often said to have aromas of ultra-ripe plums and a certain “reedy” aroma. Piscos made from Muscat and its variants possess the characteristic citrus zest and floral aromas associated with this family of grapes.

For me, Pisco is one of the most palatable and refined spirits IN THE WORLD, far more interesting than most any rum (and lighter for sure), and beacuse there is no barrel aging, less “demanding” than any Cognac or Bourbon or Whiskey. In fact, Pisco is well known for having very little alcoholic pungency and “bite” and the very best ones are SO smooth they seem more like soft drinks than spirits! This is no exaggeration…many folks upon meeting a bottle of Pisco for the first time have gone from zero to looking up at the spinning light fixtures from the comfort of the floor inside of an hour’s time. The stuff is so smooth, fascinatingly scented, and “sweet”, most people can quickly forget that this stuff is as strong as vodka or gin but without any of the “don’t tread on me” warnings that these two spirits dole out with each swallow. One further bonus with Pisco is that all but the most rare examples, Pisco is never very expensive - almost always less than $25 for a 750ml bottle.

Unfortunately, Pisco is not easy to find (and by law, we cannot sell spirits online, so I’m forbidden to even link to the ones that we carry here at WL) especially if you’re not in an area where there is a decent concentration of South Americans. Nevertheless, I recommend that if you are a spirit drinker, that you get yourself to the best liquor shop in your area and grab a bottle if they’re stocking one, and if not, keep your eyes peeled for the stuff in your travels. Drink Pisco and fight the good fight.

TOM CIOCCO