“Fruity” - What does it mean to you?
…real short post today…This is another very frequently miscontrued wine term, and I’m STILL not sure why the confusion exists…
Anyone who works in a wine shop has the perpetual job of describing the aromas and flavors of hundreds of different wines. We freely use descriptors like, “cherry laced”, “leathery”, and even “honeyed” in describing aromas, and “structured”, “smooth”, “fresh” and “fruity” with regard to mouth feel and flavor. Now about half of the time that one drops the “F word”, the customer says “Oh, I don’t want anything sweet”. And of course we are all quick to point out that at least when WE use the term “fruity” we mean “showing the primary aromas and/or flavors of FRUIT, i.e. fresh strawberries, prunes, pineapple juice - the obvious and sometimes less than obvious flavors and aromas that derive from all manner of fruits.
So why do SO MANY people still hear “fruity” and think “sweet”? I really don’t KNOW the answer to this question, but it seems to me that this disconnect is rooted in some euphemistic marketing copy from days of yore (I have noticed that most of the folks who read “fruity” as “sweet” are north of 40). Most folks who have only a cursory acquaintance with the wine world believe that “serious” wines are dry and sweet wines are for the novice…to me, the term “fruity” was coined to take what was determined to be the stink that had been put on wines like Mateus Rose`, White Zinfandel, and Asti Spumante off of their shoulders by replacing the word “sweet”, which had always triggered such connotations as “treacly”, “syrupy” and “saccharine”, with the more imagistic, and less pejorative word “fruity”…
Any ideas how “fruity” came to mean “sweet” in describing wine? Does anyone actually KNOW FOR SURE why this crossing of meanings has occured? Post away!
TOM CIOCCO
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Unlike color and sound which can be physically described in angstrom units or frequency, taste is a relatively subjective sensation. While there are odor norms which have been established using standard reference “smells” (cherry, strawberry, tobacco, barnyard, violets, etc.) the standard “tastes” of sweet, sour, bitter and salt don’t provide sufficient clarity to describe wines.
Back in the days when I started drinking wine (the mid sixties) and Mateus was a “comer” on the wine shelves (and in advertising space) the usual French Bordeaux was a very tannic and age-worthy product which, while food friendly, was usually not approachable by the “average” schlemiel. These “serious” wines were typically dry and to contrast their austerity with the off-dry crap that was being pushed, the term “fruity” started to be used. The contrast between the dry tannins of red wines and the “fruity sweetness” of these roses etc. was eventually shortened to “fruity”.
With the advent of Robert Parker and his ilk, the notion of “fruit forward” wines — i.e., NON-sweet but “fruit driven” started to be used more commonly. But, while this doesn’t necessarily imply sweetness, the word “fruity” often has that connotation, even outside the wine vocabulary; especially when the reference is to “ripe peaches” or “ripe” anything — ripeness is usually associated with sweetness where fruit are concerned.
Comment by Andrew Pinkowitz — January 27, 2007 @ 2:30 pm
It’s a great question Tom. All I can think is that some people associate that term with things like Fruity Pebbles. I’m sure there are other items I can’t think of right now, that are also called “Fruity this” and Fruity that” and they are most likely sweet, like Fruity Pebbles.
Comment by Brooklyn Paul — January 27, 2007 @ 4:10 pm
Maybe because as kids most everything that is “fruity” and appealing is loaded with sugar. Fruit Punch, Grape Juice, Orange Juice, etc… Then there are all the candies labeled with a fruit flavor that are really pure sugar. I loved Fun Dip, massive sugar rush there. Later, it kinda gets generalized at some point.
Comment by Rich K — January 27, 2007 @ 11:06 pm
I think Rich K has a big part of it. I also think that for the average person (i.e. not an enophile), “fruity beverage” gives a sensory memory of “fruit juice”. Grape, apple, orange juice are all very sweet drinks. For instance, I think pineapple juice is almost undrinkable because of its syrupy taste and texture.
One of the definitions of the word “fruity” at dictionary.com is: “3. excessively sweet or mellifluous; cloying; syrupy.” Perhaps a better term to use with the wine novice would be “dried fruit”.
It’s simply what that word means to many people - - take that opportunity to tell them what it means on your palate and to the wine world in general! These distinctions are what make wine seem so inaccessible to many people.
Comment by Matt B DC — January 28, 2007 @ 4:38 pm
I’ve always viewed the descriptor “fruity” as a bit of a euphemism. Clearly, “sweet” has a negative connotation to some when wine is the subject, so those selling sweet or off-dry wines needed a slightly softer word than “sweet”, and fruity fit the bill…something like calling a used car “pre-owned”
TOM CIOCCO
Comment by Tom C — January 29, 2007 @ 10:24 am
Great post! As a neophyte wine student I have been a victim of being confused when someone described a wine as ‘fruity’. Moreover, both white and red wines have fruit flavors, but it is my understanding that only reds are properly described as ‘fruity’; whites are ‘sweet’ having flavors or these or those fruits. The way that I made sense out of describing reds as ‘fruity’ is context. The meanings of words depend on context and ‘fruit’ in the wine world is a classic example. Given the types of flavors that red wines can have, e.g., earthy, meaty, flowery, etc., fruity seemed to fill a descriptive lacuna. And ‘fruity’ made more sense as a red wine adjective when I became familiar with the kinds of fruits that were used to describe reds, e.g., dark cherry, black currant, prune, etc. Typically the fruits used to describe reds are dark fruits—supposing its not completely nonsense to speak of ‘dark fruits’.
Comment by Gustasopher — January 29, 2007 @ 1:26 pm
Hi Tom,
Well, I am a little bit north of 40, and I do indeed often associate a “fruity” descriptor with implications of sweetness. I think it is a byproduct of American culture and our “soda pop” society where fruitiness and sweetness often go hand in hand.
Comment by JayZee — January 30, 2007 @ 9:31 pm
Hi guys,
Enjoyed all your comments. For me the answer is very straight-forward. Fruit-is-sweet!!! Tom you said it yourself “WE use the term “fruity” we mean “showing the primary aromas and/or flavors of FRUIT, i.e. fresh strawberries, prunes, pineapple juice -”
All that good stuff is loaded with sugar and when in season and fresh is refreshing and yes - sweet!!
Before there was coca-cola (cant stand the stuff) there was natures pure/fresh fruits. The strawberries, prunes, and pineapples were our way to enjoy sweetness. Most people are exposed to fruity sweetness before ever having sipped wine so you cant try and lay the word fruity on them without them thinking sweet. Also Parker didnt help…the terms “fruit bomb” to me means overly extracted with high levels a high % of alc.
Comment by Steve M — January 31, 2007 @ 6:29 pm