If you play it, say it!
This is neither a new nor an original idea, but one I think whose time has come..ready? Right to the point… ALL Wine labels should be required to list all grape varieities contained therein as well the percentages levels at which they are present. I just can’t see any reason not to. It’s a pretty simple idea really, and one that would require almost no extra effort for the producer, but the benefits that this very simple change would bring is vast. I think we’ve all been “there” too…you pick up a bottle from a wine shop shelf. The label is intriguing, or maybe it’s from an unfamiliar region, but you don’t know anything about the grape types included, overall style, or even just where the hell this bottle comes from exactly. You spin the bottle around hoping for a little edification, and the only thing written on the back label is the surgeon general’s warning about avoiding alcohol during pregnancy and the directive to stay off of the heavy machinery when you’re having more than one, or some goofy doggerel about gentle breezes that blow off the adjoining swamp that lightly but firmly tongue-kiss each grape…you know what I mean…
To me, not listing your “ingredients” and stytlistic choices just seems like a lost opportunity to introduce yourself if not as a winemaker, then at least as one representative of the region in which you work. If you are in a “traditional” growing zone, Cahors for example, you can let your drinking public know that for example, even though Tannat and Merlot are permitted in the blend, you choose to make your wine with 100% Malbec because of A, B, and C…
And for New World producers that operate under far fewer appellation constraints, a “full disclosure” requirement would help to guide the drinker, and likely reduce the number of displeased people, the ones that took a chance on “Booboo’s Blend” out of Napa, only to find out that the cuvee`is comprised of 70% Thompson seedless grapes, and 30% Gros Plant. The average gal or fella, would likely say “EEEEWW”, and put the bottle back in place. But, this gives those whose tastes range from the odd to the downright perverse, (or perversely curious at least), an opportunity to scratch that strange itch they’ve developed…
Precise varietal labeling would also allow newer wine drinkers to begin to formulate rough sensory “identikits” for each grape variety as well as the more common blends (meritage, GSM, etc.). And, once you know what Tempranillo “tastes like”, when you encounter that one your brother-in-law brings over - the one from Bhutan that he thinks is “killer” - (and you’ve been hitting Ribera del Duero HARD), you can truly begin to understand how profoundly terroir can texture a wine…
Another kind of benefit in this labeling requirement comes for a “nativist” stickler like me. For example, I am absolutely LIVID about the latest amendments to the Chianti norms which now permit fairly significant percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and even Syrah to be blended into one of the most ancient, storied, and esteemed wines in the world. To me, this is an abomination, and having this info would afford me the opportunity to leave as many of those bottles on the shelf as possible.
So what does everyone think? I don’t forsee any sort of rancorous debate on this, but maybe I’m missing a big downside to this sort of detailed labeling? Do some feel that good wine is good wine, and the varietal composition is beside the point? Come one, come all!
TOM CIOCCO
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I couldn’t agree more. It is the only way for those of us that like to visit our local wine merchant, looking for bargains to shop. Without this minimal information, we are left to the employees who sometimes know less than we do.
Comment by Harold Todman — April 2, 2007 @ 7:41 am
Hey Tom!
Very nice article….I think you hit the nail on the head…there are few reasons why wine makers do not put the blend on the label…none of with make little, if any, sense.
On a side note, I have no problems with Italians playing with Chianti Blends, but I agree that they shouldn’t call these blends ‘Chianti,’ but something else instead.
Comment by Fiorentina! — April 2, 2007 @ 11:03 am
Couldn’t agree with you more Tom - in my book, the more info the better, including stylistic choices. The winery that I think does the best job with this is Ridge - not only are the grape percentage compositions included on each front label, but there is very detailed winegrowing and winemaking decisions on the back label. You can really discern a lot about how the wine might be from this information.
Comment by mas — April 2, 2007 @ 11:49 am
Absolutely. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve been in a wine shop and picked up a bottle but had to put it back because I wasn’t sure of the varietal(s). It’s not that there are particular kinds or blends that I don’t like but very often you buy wine to drink now (if not as soon as you get home) and sometimes you’re just in the mood a particular type, or body or you have a specific cuisine you’d like to match.
I think the biggest potential market out there is made up of people who are adventurous enought to try a wine or a region they’re not familiar with but don’t want to dive in without having at least some idea of what they’re buying.
Comment by Gary — April 2, 2007 @ 3:44 pm
Tom, I agree, and I’d take it a step further. Label all additives, not just varietals. If somebody is fining with egg white proteins or isingglass from sturgeon bladders, I’d like to know that. Maybe I’m allergic to egg whites? (I’m not… but what if I were?) And I’d like to know if the winery is adding wood chips for that “real oak barrel” flava. Maybe I’ll buy the wine anyway, maybe I won’t. But I’ll have the choice.
I blogged an interesting LA Times article just last week about this: http://www.tagworld.com/brian1970/PostDetail.aspx?id=339dec62-68dc-42f6-b60f-0ddef3e973cc
And while we’re at it, how about a nutrition/calorie label too? If bottled water - quite ridiculously - has to be labeled (despite having 0 calories per serving, 0 carbs, and almost 0 vitamins/minerals), then why not require this labeling on wine? Maybe I’m watching my carbs? (I’m not… but what if I were?)
Don’t get me wrong. I’m not playing ‘Devil’s Advocate’ here. I truly don’t think it’s silly to make full disclosure of ingredients.
On the other hand, I realize that too much labeling can be expensive and burdensome for those little “mom & pop” boutique wineries belonging to retired multimillionaire physicians. And I don’t believe in overkill labeling to ward off tort lawyers (”Caution: peanut products may be processed within 20 miles of this winery!”). There has to be some balance.
My point is simply: give the consumer all relevant information, so that he/she/nameless-faceless-corporation can make the best, most informed purchasing decision possible under the circumstances. Let the wood chips fall where they may.
Comment by TagWorld Brian — April 2, 2007 @ 4:10 pm
TWB-
I think the varietal thing is so easy to make a good case for on so many levels, that if anyone did actually try to take up this banner, it would be a hard idea to shoot down…your “step further” while I personally agree, will undoubtedly arouse the attentions of lawyers worldwide and wacky hijinx will undoubtedly ensue…there are just so many things that winemakers could point to as unfair or descriminatory with listing EVERY SINGLE additive, process, etc.
TOM CIOCCO
Comment by Tom C — April 2, 2007 @ 4:33 pm
As a lawyer, I love the wacky hijinx. The tomfoolery, shenanigans, and hilarity too. But I agree. It’s that first-day-of-law-school argument: Ye Olde Slippery Sloppe.
Comment by TagWorld Brian — April 2, 2007 @ 5:40 pm
Great article Tom. In total agreement. It would certainly help some of us decipher many lesser known wine regions in Europe. What bothers me even more is when a winery (often times from CA) creates a blend and only puts the name of the blend on the bottle…no percentages, no grapes, nothing. Just Red Table Wine….or Meritage.
Comment by ML — April 3, 2007 @ 5:52 pm
Tom,
As you know, I’m in the wine biz & totally agree with you about the varietal breakdown being posted on the labels. I constantly suggest this to my suppliers if they are not already doing it. However, I believe that you (& the Wine Library) as a retailer can also alleviate some of the confusion over blended wines. You (the Wine Library) taste all the wines that come into the store & usually have the information of what is in the blend. This can be posted on a shelf talker or on your website. If you are serious about this issue, you can do something about it within your own galaxy. The ripples will (with time) effect the universe of wine.
Comment by Ed D. — April 5, 2007 @ 9:06 am
I’m of a different mind.
What’s wine enthusiasm without the little quirky bits of info one needs to play the game? I like that a lot of wines only include the appellations on the labels; it’s fun to quiz one’s self when perusing a store’s offerings.
That is what makes one an enthusiast and not merely a wine drinker: the yearning to learn more and search for answers. There will always be ways of getting the information, but once you find yourself looking through a book or searching the web then you know you’re an oenophile, not a mere imbiber.
Without the various layers of esoteric knowledge, there would be no such thing as a wine enthusiast. I DO NOT subscribe to any elitist ideas nor do I look down my nose on “wine drinkers”; to each his/her own. I do however take pride in having knowledge that’s not exactly commonplace. I feel that’s the fun of it all: seeking knowledge and finding it.
Comment by Andre — April 8, 2007 @ 2:11 am
I’m in total agreement with you, Tom. The biggest fear of the average wine consumer is purchasing a wine they don’t like. That’s why so many casual wine drinkers are stuck on one or two wines they rely upon to deliver a consistent appealing experience. Their aversion to spending money on a wine they don’t like supersedes their sense of adventure. Listing the grape varieties would at least give the consumer and the wine salesperson some clues to a wine’s characteristics.
I would recommend additional compulsory information to answer the reasonable consumer query, “What does this wine taste like?” The most important piece of information for wine consumers, especially white wine consumers, is sweetness level. The grams per liter or percentage of sugar should be listed. Consumers would soon learn the levels of sweetness they most prefer.
When shopping for a Chardonnay, style is key. Many people prefer only the crisp, minerally, unoaked, zero malolactic fermentation versions. Others look for butter and the full mouth feel of heavily-oaked versions. Chardonnay labels should give some indication of the levels of butter (malolactic fermentation) and oak (duration of aging, new vs. old barrels).
A couple other sources of intimidation for wine shoppers are pairing wines with food and proper serving temperatures. Every label should include a suggested serving temperature and a few general food pairing suggestions (not a ten word description of one specific exotic creation that only Wolfgang Puck possesses the skill to undertake).
I also think the winemaker’s name is a nice touch. I used to sell mutual funds for a living. Besides the style and objective of the fund, the most important thing to know about a mutual fund is the fund manager. The same applies to wine and winemakers.
All the above information would also be helpful to the wine salesperson, who doesn’t get a chance to sample each wine in the store. It would make it a lot easier to direct consumers to the specific types of wines they prefer, as well as provide a tool to help consumers explore new things.
I suspect that the conspicuous absence of such information is due to wine producers avoiding anything on their labels that might dissuade a prospective buyer from purchasing their wine. The resulting risk is the buyer’s impression of the producer is forever tainted when a wine doesn’t deliver the desired characteristics. I think the producers would be much better off if their labels provided sufficient information to allow buyers to match their wine purchases with their personal preferences.
Comment by Kent Benson — July 13, 2007 @ 3:24 pm