Godello - Galicia’s other white grape

The region of Galicia in northwest Spain (just north of Portugal) has recently exploded onto the international wine landscape riding the near escape-velocity thrust of its calling card varietal Albarino (al ba REEN yo), and a well-derved ride it is - Albarino is something like a dry Spanish version of a Riesling (no actual genetic relation though), and it pairs PERFECTLY with the plethora of seafood dishes so common in the Galician kitchen, especially octopus, squid, and shrimps. But as wonderful as it is, Albarino is not our focus here, it is Albarino’s recently revived stable mate Godello…

Godello (go DAY yo) is most happy in the relatively warm Valdeorras region that it shares with Galicia’s signature red grape variety, Mencia. Under the name Gouveio, the variety also grows on the south side of the Minho river in Portugal. For whatever reason, Godello really took the Phylloxera epidemic on the chin, and by the early 1980s the variety was nearly extinct, but the Galicians, who are ethnically Celtic, and whose language is closer to Portuguese than it is to Spanish, are intensely “nationalistic”, and a few dedicated growers in Valdeorras and Bierzo took a stand for the grape, and began to rehabilitate some neglected Godello vineyards, and eventually, to plant new vineyards as well.

In the vineyard, Godello likes well-drained soils, as well as ample sun, so many Godello vineyards are south-facing. Unfortunately, Godello is not a particularly hearty soul and it is fairly prone to many of the major vine diseases. Godello’s bunches are moderately compact and medium-sized, with smallish, round yellow-tinged green berries. The variety buds and ripens early, with most growers effecting harvest by about mid-September. The vine’s yields are reltively low. All of these relatively minor difficulties alone would not qualify Godello as “difficult”, but when stacked one on top of the other, they surely contributed to the variety’s near abandonment, as well as its slow contemporary “growth curve”.

In the glass, Godello most often exhibits a pale, often silvery color with green reflections. The body is usually quite full and the acidity is moderate. Godello is associated with aromas of apple, pear, and pineapple, lime flowers, and after some age, bitter almond, and an intense minerality. In the mouth the wines are fairly unctuous but well structured. Well-made Godello wines can improve in bottle for approximately five years from the vintage date.

Godello is traditionally paired with seafood, especially shellfish, and richer finned fish, but more contemporary and equally felicitous matches have been made with Chinese and Vietnamese foods, and “creative contemporary” dishes that are more exotically spiced and/or herbed.

So when all is said and done, Godello is not as directly accessible as let’s say Pinot Grigio or Chardonnay, but it is in no way a difficult wine to understand. Right now, we’ve only got one Godello in stock (and a fairly pricey one at that), the wine is WONDERFUL, but if this one’s a little too taxing on you wallet, check back soon for more choices! As always, please post your tasting notes here as comments.

go, Go GODELLO!!!

TOM CIOCCO