Lambrusco - Yes, you’re reading this right - Lambrusco

I’ve been projecting the triumphant return of Lambrusco for a couple of years, and I think that it just rode into town (though I’m still waiting to hear the actual fanfare). This is a wine whose time has come, and we’re going to see why.

Lambrusco, like some other (especially) Italian varieties, is actually a FAMILY of grapes that are native to the eastern half of the Emilia-Romagna region (Emilia) primarily in the provinces of Modena, Parma, and Reggio Emilia, though small pockets of the grape can be found in Romagna, Piedmont, Trentino, and even in the deeply southern region of Basilicata. The names of these subvarieties are many (over 60 by some counts), but some of the most common are Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco di Grasparossa, Lambrusco Salamino, and Lambrusco Reggiano. The Lambrusco familiy of grapes is EXCEEDINGLY ancient, and there is even a certain amount of evidence that the Etruscans were cultivating Lambrusco grapes in what is now Emilia-Romagna and northern Tuscany hundreds of years B.C., which suggests to some that the Lambrusco family might be 100% native to this area, and not descended from other vitis vinifera that are known to have come from Greece or the Caucasus.

The first modern rise and eventual fall of Lambrusco dates back to the 1970s with brands like Riunite and Opici. The ’70s witnessed Americans discovering wine, but very few folks at that time jumped right into Premier Cru Burgundy or Brunello or Tokaji, so it was thought that the spritzy, easy nature of Lambrusco was a fine entry into the wine world both in terms of taste and price. Unfortunately, too many producers saw Coke and Pepsi as their targets as much as they did decent Chianti or Beaujolais, so as people began to discover still, fully dry wines, Lambrusco was the obvious target to snob, and so it went…And as it went, it damaged the reputation of REAL Lambrusco, the stigma from which the wine is only beginning to emerge.

Lambrusco was developed, like nearly every old world wine with ancient roots, for a specific cuisine, in this case the rich, complex cuisine of Emilia. La cucina emiliana is famous for dishes like tortellini alla bolognese which is indeed is BIG food - rich, complex, bold, yet still somehow elegant. The initial wine pairing one might seek out for this sort of fare would be a BIG, powerful red, but this match was not to be for two basic reasons. First, the climate in Emilia does not support the cultivation of grapes that produce massive, strapping reds. Second, at some point, the stylistic choice to not try to beat these huge dishes into submission with even BIGGER wines (this was believed to be a sort of palate punishing lily-gilding approach), so rather than “fight fire with fire”, the locals thought a light, bubbly, rustic, red would not seek to compete for the diner’s attentions, but rather provide a certain foil for the food.

Lambrusco in the vineyard is a bit different from many other varieties. The first thing that one would notice about a Lambrusco vineyard is that they are DEAD FLAT. Though this is just a fact of the terrain around Modena, Reggio, and Parma, Lambrusco seems to be happier in the rich, flat earth of the pianura padana (the ancient floodplane of the Po river) than in the mountains or hills. Second, because this region is quite humid, with fairly high rainfall levels, Lambrusco vines are trained high onto pergolas 8 or 9 feet high to keep the fruit away from the damp ground. Lambrusco vines are harvested standing under the pergolas, looking UP at the bunches which are cut and allowed to drop into small “basket” that is more like a deep pie plate with a straight handle sticking out from the bottom center of the whole affair. Harvesting Lambrusco is more of a pain in the NECK than a source of lumbar distress.

So what does good Lambrusco actually taste like? First, let me dispel the myth once and for all that ALL Lambruscos are sweet. Not true. SOME certainly are (these are often labelled as “abboccato” or “amabile”), but just as many are BONE dry, and ALL Lambruschi (The Italian plural - pronounced “lam BROO ski”) have a razor sharp acidity that serves so well to cut throught the fatty Emilian menu. But, because Lambrusco rarely even reaches 12% alcohol, and can often be slightly to moderately sweet, Lambrusco makes an excellent partner for spicy foods from Mexican or Asian kitchens. Lambrusco’s flavor and aroma range can vary quite a bit, but most Lambruscos show a chalky minerality mixed with chocolatey, dark berry aromas, a VERY dark color, and a rich and full body that is balanced by a prominent acidity, and of course the fine bubbles and the COOL froth that gathers at the top of the glass like a violet-colored head of a good Belgian beer.

Lambrusco is not “regular” wine, but nor is it meant to be. Lambrusco can be a sort of gap-spanning wine - a wine that can tackle jobs that would vanquish many other seemingly worthy contenders. And because Lambrusco is always served chilled, and is low in alcohol, and rarely ever exceeds $15 per bottle, Lambrusco makes a great alternative to beer or sparkling white “patio” wines.

Yes, Lambrusco is fun, but by the same token, don’t take Lambrusco too lightly either. It is, as the English say, a very “useful” wine, and for those who put off by the hype, snobbery, and prices that go along with cult wines, Lambrusco is a sliver bullet. Below, I’ve linked to the two Lambruschi that we currently carry. Both are made by artisanal, family-owned concerns, are REAL, WELL MADE wines, and are DRY. Try one for yourself and see just how much fun and versatility a bottle of wine can hold.

TOM CIOCCO

LOVELY LAMBRUSCHI