Gaglioppo - The real barolo of the south

…the Rare Grape Series continues…

Though there are small patches of the Gaglioppo (gal-YOH-po) in Umbria, Abruzzo, and even as far north as the Marche, the Gaglioppo grape is most closely tied to Calabria in the “toe” of the boot that is Italy. As one might infer from the title of this piece, Gaglioppo is a red grape variety. And before we continue, let me briefly explain what I mean by the title. There’s an old saw that often refers to another great grape variety from the south, Aglianico, as “the Barolo of the south”. Now there can be no doubting that Aglianico is indeed a noble variety that produces complex, powerful, and long lived wines (like Barolo), but so does Gaglioppo, and most importantly when making such a proclamation, Gaglioppo actually looks and tastes quite like Barolo (or a more simple Nebbiolo in it’s less ambitious incarnations) especially those wines produced in the Ciro` DOC, and Aglianico decidedly does NOT…’nuff said about this…

As with so many “ancient” grape varieties, especially ones that are situated in Southern Italy, there is some notion that Gaglioppo is originally Greek, but thus far there is no proof for this assertion. Recent genetic studies however do suggest a strong relationship to a rare Sicilian variety called Frappato.

Gaglioppo is a hardy variety, and is very well adapted to the exceedingly hot and dry conditions that prevail in Calabria. Despite this vine’s overall stalwart nature, it is a bit susceptible to the vine diseases oidium and peronospera, but because both of these maladies are mold-based, and because Calabria is so arid, these diseases are only problematic in very wet years which are a vary rare occurancc in sun-soaked Calabria.

Though there are other red varieties in Calabria, Gaglioppo is clearly the most important and widespread, it appearing in the Bivongi, Cirò, Donnici, Lamezia, Melissa, Pollino, San Vito di Luzzi, Sant’Anna di Isola Capo Rizzuto, Savuto, Scavigna, and Verbicaro DOCs

Gaglioppo berry bunches are quite tightly packed, with a medium skin thickness. The vine’s production is fairly prolific, vigorous (lots of foliage), as well as predictable from vintage to vintage. Gaglioppo ripens fairly late (usually in the first week in October), but Calabria’s hot and dry conditions provide plenty enough heat and light to fully ripen the fruit. Currently, there are over 7,000 hecatres of land under the Gaglioppo vine.

In the glass, Gaglioppo is fairly light in color, often showing the “brick” tones so closely associated with Barolo, especially after a few years of bottle age. But despite the lightish coloration of Galioppo’s wines, it is quite strongly structured with formidable levels of both acids and tannins. In terms of flavors and aromas, Gaglioppo shows notes of licorice, “dust”, dried flowers, mixed berries, and a certain sappy, “vinous” aroma (sound a little familiar?).

Gaglioppo based wines pair very well with grilled chicken, rabbit, and spicy dishes when young. With some aging, Gaglioppo-based wines are good matches with roasted lamb and game.

Below are a few Gaglioppo-based wines. As always, please feel free to post tasting notes for these or any other Gaglioppo-based wines here as comments.

TOM CIOCCO

CIRO

GAGLIOPPO CALABRIA IGT