Timorasso - One of Italy’s “biggest” whites

The rare grape series continues…

We’re reaching deep down into the deep bag that is the collection of native Italian grape varieties by featuring a truly unique white grape variety called…Timorasso…

Timorasso hails from south-eastern Piedmont, and more specifically, from the Colli Tortonesi (the hills around the small city of Tortona) which is bounded by the Langhe, The Monferrato Hills, and the Oltrepo` Pavese regions. Timorasso is not THE rarest of rare Italian grape varieties, but it probably sits in the “second tier” of rarities. Currently, only about 17 hectares (42 acres) of land is planted to Timorasso by about 15 different producers. But despite its rarity nowadays, Timorasso once was widely planted throughout Piedmont and Liguria, but due to the variety’s propensity to abort its flowers, propagation of the vine becomes very difficult, and even then, this tendency dramatically reduces yields. For many farmers of the past, these flaws were simply too much to brook, consequently, it was ripped up and replaced by more cooperative and productive varieties.

Physiologically, Timorasso has exceedingly thick skins, an attribute that may have almost single-handedly saved it from complete extinction. In the often wet and cold areas where Timorasso grows, possessing such thick skins goes a long way to warding off all forms of rot and mold. Further, these thick skins, if one chooses to macerate the must on them, can lend the wine a highly structured, almost “tannic” quality. Further, the berries, when fully ripe, are very sweet, and therefore Timorasso can and does produce very full-bodied, highish alcohol wines.

In the glass, Timorasso really shows its novel character - it is big-bodied, dense, and sapid with a powerful “nervosity” in terms of mouth feel, and with age (Timorasso ages well and with ever more development year after year), a prominent roasted hazelnut character. On the olfactory side, it is not a wine that demonstrates lots of obvious “fruit” flavors, though permutations of citrus fruits and pears are often cited descriptors. More prominently, Timorasso tends toward an intense, “twangy” minerality, white spices, green licorice, and dried wildflowers.

Timorasso pairs well with strong, salty appetizers, “noble” birds like turkey and guinea fowl, and strongly flavored fish, as well as any dish cooked with large amounts of herbs, beans, or vegetables.

As always, please post your tasting notes for this, or any other Timorasso wines (good luck with that!) here as comments. One further note - the wine below is listed as a “Derthona” - this is a new designation for Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi - just FYI…

TOM CIOCCO

TIMORASSO - Piedmont’s “heavyweight” white