Arinto - one of portugal’s freshest

…the “rare grape” series continues…

And today our focus is a white-berried variety called Arinto (ah-REEN-tu). The Arinto grape (which is also sometimes called Pederna) is most closely associated with the Bucelas region which sits just a few miles north of Lisbon, though of late, more and more Arinto is being planted in Santarem, Almeirim, and Coruche east of Lisbon, as well as in the Terras do Sado region to Lisbon’s south. In all of these areas, Arinto is usually bottled unblended (it must make up a minimum of 75% of whites from Bucelas). The variety also figures into the northern Portuguese Vinho Verde blend.

In the early 19th century, Arinto wines became very popular in England where they were often marketed as “Portuguese Hock”. “Hock” is an old English term for German riesling wines, and Arinto’s many similarities with Riesling certainly gave rise to its trade name which in turn undoubtedly led many to think that Arinto and Riesling were at least cousins, if not identical twins. Recent genetic studies however have proven that despite these varieties’ similarities in flavor and aroma, they are actually unrelated.

One reason for Arinto’s growing influence throughout Portugal (and of late, in Spain as well) is its generally unfussy, cooperative nature - it is quite resistent to all forms of rot which makes it a fine vine to plant in dampish places like Bucelas and Vinho Verde. But being the trooper that it is, Arinto also tolerates a fair amount of heat, and further, never comletely abandons its crisp acidity even in the hottest seasons.

In the glass, Arinto yields shiney, golden-colored wines with a wonderful, lip-smacking freshness. The grape’s aroma/flavor profile leans stongly toward citrus, especially lemon oil and orange juice, as well as notes of white wildflowers. And because of this wonderfully fresh flavor profile, Arinto is rarely if ever aged in any sort of wood barrel, but rather in stainless steel tanks that help this grape’s wines to retain their vivacious personalities.

Not surprisingly, Arinto is a wonderful match for all kinds of seafood, but is an especially felicitous match with clams, shrimps, and flat fish. Back at shore, Arinto dances beautifully with fried chicken dishes, young, creamy goat cheeses, and not too sour salads.

As always please post you tasting notes for this or any other Arinto here as comments.

TOM CIOCCO

ARE YOU INTO ARINTO?